Drive chains need the most atten­tion and are usually neglected or improperly maintained. For trail rid­ers or racers, a chain should be lubed every time the quad goes out. A chain on a utility ATV can be lubed less frequently unless the chain is in contact with snow, mud or water. Never lube your chain with WD40 or other penetrating oil. These fluids are good for cleaning a chain, but will not protect it. They are made mostly of solvents and will ruin 0-rings and dissipate needed oils on the chain.

The proper way to lube a chain is to first ride the vehicle for five or ten minutes warming the chain up. Then spray your lube directly over each side of the chain, on the links not the rollers. While spraying, rotate the chain one revolution for each side; any more is a waste. There are many different chain lubes for specific chain types available. 0-ring and non 0-ring chains require a different lube, although there are products that cover both. The preferred lubes are now designed to resist heat, fling or drip off and not attract dirt. They're all better than the old method of soaking your links in a bath of motor oil.

If your quad doesn't have a chain, it has a drive shaft; if it's a 4X4 it also has CV joints turning the wheels. A typical drive-shaft should have a zerk (grease) fitting on the U-joints at either end of the shaft. They should be pumped with a shot or two of a multi purpose moly grease from a grease gun monthly, under light daily usage. If your quad is equipped with CV joints you need to keep an eye on the condition of their protective boots.

Once a year the boots should be peeled back and grease should be added. The CV has a knuckle on the end of an axle that should be completely surrounded by grease. Bel Ray has a grease made especially for CVs. However, a multi-purpose moly will do. Shaft-drive equipped ATVs will also have an additional gearbox (differential) in the center of the chassis between the tires. Rear only on a 2WD. Front and rear on a 4WD. The fluid level in these boxes should be checked every time the engine oil is changed. It should be changed every year.

To check the oil level in a differential, remove the check bolt (this bolt is usu­ally on the side and well marked); be prepared to reinstall the bolt quickly. If oil flows out you are good to go, if it doesn't it's time to add a little until it starts flowing again. Most differentials require 80 weight gear oil. Call your dealer or check your owners manual first to make sure.

Wheel bearings these days are sealed and cannot be repacked. However, a lit­tle grease can be added on the spindle where the bearing rides. Wheel bear­ings should be checked for excessive play every three months on sport machines and annually with utility quads, more frequently if you ride in water often. We have found that most racing grease will work best for wheel bearings, A-arms, ball joints, shock link­age and steering stems.

With your ATV off the ground, spin the wheels by hand making sure the bear­ings move smooth without resistance and with no side to side movement. Pivot Works offers complete front and rear wheel bearing kits for most ATVs.

Some sport machines have linkage arms on the rear shock. The zerk fitting should be pumped with a shot of grease on a monthly basis.

A-arms usually have zerk fittings for monthly greasings. An A-arm bushing only holds a small amount of grease (about a half a pump). Be sure to clean off any excess when you're done. If the A-arm doesn't have a grease fitting remove the pivot bolt and coat the shaft of the bolt with a little lube.

Ball joints have a protective rubber boot that should be intact. It holds in grease and keeps dirt out. If the rubber boot fails the joint should be replaced. Most sealed ball joints should last over five years. If they have a grease fitting, one pump every couple of months will keep them moving.

The steering stem should be looked at and lubed on a regular basis. One area that needs lubricant is at the clamp that holds the stem to the frame. The second area is a sealed bearing or rubber bushing at the lower end of the stem. The stem clamp is located just under the handlebars. After the clamp is removed it needs to be wiped clean. Then, the clamp and stem should be lubed with a thin layer of fresh grease and reinstalled. While the stem clamp is removed, raise the stem up enough to wipe on a thin layer of grease on the inside on the bearing and a layer on the shaft itself.

Lubing your brake, clutch and throt­tle cables will extend their life and help your quad operate properly. Motion Pro has a Cable Luber and a specific lube for cables. It provides you with a smooth pulling cable while not attract­ing dirt. Cables should be lubed annual­ly on utility machines and monthly on sport quads. Racers will lube cables before each event.

To properly lube a cable, install the cable luber on the top end of the cable and spray lubricant until fluid runs out the bottom end.

The cable ends can always use a dab of grease at the pulling points.

Top racers even take the extra step to apply a thin layer of grease to the handle bar surface under their twist throttle tube.