Following is the step-by-step filter cleaning procedure we use at Dirt Wheels. Along with that are some tried and true air filter tips which cover just about everything you need to know about this important, but somewhat neglected, aspect of off-road riding.

·          There are two ways to get your filter clean. One is with a can of filter cleaner which quickly and easily breaks down the dirty foam filter oil and gets the fil­ter clean without a lot of fuss.

·          The second method for filter cleaning is with simple dishwashing detergent (the grease-cutter varieties are best) and warm water. Save yourself a lot grief by using rubber gloves as the fil­ter oil is quite sticky and hard to wash off your hands.

·          While riding aggressively, just about every type of crud is trying to get into your airbox and foul up your engine. If you head into battle with a clean air filter and filter wrap, you and your engine have an excellent chance of making it to the finish over and over again.

·          During your final rinse after cleaning (with either the cleaner or soap), run the water from the inside out to push all the debris through the filter. Next, you can wring it out, shake it, and let it air dry for a few hours before oiling

·          You have your choice of spray-on filter oil or pour-on filter oil. You don't have a choice of just using plain old motor oil— it doesn't have the sticky components to keep it in place on the filter. Work the oil through evenly and hold it up to the light to look for any missed areas.

·          One of the best things to happen in the air filter world are the filter wraps. They don't restrict airflow and keep the filter cleaner for a considerably longer time. Like the filter, they can be washed and re-used. Some companies have filter wraps that repel water.

FIVE EASY STEPS CLEAN IT: To make this entire process more pleasant, begin by donning a pair of cheap disposable plastic gloves. Next, remove your air filter from the quad, being extremely careful not to knock any dirt into the intake boot (a little chunk of dirt in the carb at this point will cancel out the entire reason for cleaning the filter in the first place!). There are several ways to clean foam filters. The best is to use a spray can of good quality foam filter cleaner. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes to loosen up all the dirt and oil. Then rinse the filter out under warm water, making sure the water flows only from the inside out. Running water on the outside of the filter will force the dirt farther into the filter, rather than out. To do a real­ly thorough job, you can take the next step of dipping the filter into another cleaner such as Twin Air Liquid Dirt Remover, but washing with the first cleaner usually is enough. Hold the filter up to the light periodically and check for dirt. If you still see contami­nation, give it another rinse. If foam fil­ter cleaners aren't available, washing the filter with soap and warm water works, but may take more elbow grease.

DRY IT: This next step is one that many riders forget about. You have to let the filter air dry before you apply the oil. Don't use a heat source such as a hair dryer; this can damage the filter. A damaged air filter will pass dirt, and that's the last thing you want for your motor. Once it's dry, inspect it for any tears and to see if the seams are start­ing to separate. Air will flow through the path of least resistance, and a tear will be it.

OIL IT: Don't use plain old motor oil! Always use a quality foam filter oil. The easiest way to oil a foam filter is to pour some oil into a ziplock bag and add the filter. Work the oil thoroughly into the filter, making sure you get it into every nook and cranny. There are also spray-on oils for filters. You still have to work the filter rigorously to make sure the oil has penetrated throughout the filter.

LET IT SIT: After oiling, it's best let the filter sit overnight before installing. This will allow the excess oil to drain, and you can inspect it to make sure there are no dry spots. If you didn't let the filter dry completely after cleaning, there may have been some water left, and oil doesn't mix with water. This will result in un-oiled spots on the filter when the water evaporates—not a good thing!

REINSTALL: Before reinstalling, clean any dirt or crud which has accu­mulated in the airbox with a clean rag, always being careful not to knock any junk into the intake boot (some mechanics stuff a clean rag in the boot whenever the filter is off). When rein­stalling, be sure not to let any dirt get on the inside of your filter after you cleaned it. If any gets in there, don't try brushing it off; re-clean the filter. All it takes is a surprisingly small amount of dirt to damage the piston and cylinder. If the filter foam seats against the air-box itself, spread a layer of high-tem­perature grease on the portion of the filter that mates with the airbox and you are set. As you can see, cleaning your air filter is not that difficult, and after a few times it will seem as easy as airing up the tires. A clean air filter has been proven over and over again to be the best thing you can do to keep your quad living a long and healthy life.

QUICK TIPS AND TRICKS

THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT FILTERS

• All air filters are not made the same. There are lots of aftermarket filters to choose from and in almost every instance they are more effi­cient and longer-lasting than the stock units, and the price difference isn't even worth worrying about. The best foam filters are dual-stage, with a more porous outer stage and a finer inner stage. Premium aftermarket air filters, for the money, are simply the best investment you can make for your ATV.

• Don't use gasoline to clean your filter. Gas breaks down the glue which is used to bind the seams in a foam filter. Use the manufacturer's specified cleaning system (like Twin Air's cleaner and cleaning tub setup) to insure long filter life.

• After washing, a filter needs time to dry and additional time for the distribution solvent to evapo­rate. Having more than one filter means you'll always have one ready to install and will be less likely to neglect this important part of your quad's maintenance rou­tine

• Don't use motor oil! A good qual­ity filter oil has two components not found in plain old motor oil. A water-like solvent aids in dispersing the oil evenly (It evaporates after about 12 hours). Another component, which you can call "stickiness," keeps the oil suspended in the filter, preventing it from draining to the bottom and drip­ping off.

• If you think adding less oil will get better airflow, you're wrong! A properly oiled filter does not signifi­cantly reduce airflow. Without enough oil, dirt can, pass through and then you'll have bigger prob­lems than better airflow.

• Despite what you may think, it's the oil, rather than the filter, that actually catches the dirt. That's why using the correct type of oil and in the right amount is so important.

• There is no such thing as totally clean air. Even filters for personal watercraft build up dirt and require cleaning, so don't underestimate what your ATV filter is going through.

• Pre-filters are the best innova­tion in the filter business since the two-stage foam units came along. Three companies make them: there's Outerwears Pre-Filters, K&N Pre-chargers, and   PC Racing's Filterskins. They slip over the air fit­ter and catch the largest contami­nants before they even get to the real filter. There are specific pre-filters built for water-resistance or extra-fine dust.

• Many racers and dune riders use K&N filters, which differ from foam units. These filters consist layers of fiber, sandwiched between two wire screens and pleated for more surface area. Oil is also applied to this type of filter. These types of  filters aren’t recommended for real dusty or wet conditions, which are better handled by the foam units.

• If you ride for long periods in real dusty conditions, you should clean your air filter after every ride. Dune riders tend to pick up lots of sand, so they, too need to stay on top of air filter maintenance, espe­cially if they aren’t running a pre-filter. If  you ride in a non-dusty environment you can get in quite a few days of riding before your filter needs cleaning. 

• Don't rely solely on a visual inspection of the filter in your machine to know if it's clean. It may have taken on dust that you can't see that is working its way through the pores. In the whole scheme of things, if it looks at all like it's dirty, it's best to take the safe route and go ahead and clean, it. Your engine will thank you in the long run.